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Atlanta restaurant review: Chicken Supreme

While our $25 whole-bird dinner was a luxurious amount of food for two people, it most likely could be divvied up to feed a mama, a papa and a couple of littles.

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Pollo Supremo’s sweet-tangy frozen margarita is drizzled with vivid red hibiscus syrup and sells for $8. Wendell Brock for The Atlanta Journal-Constitution

Credit: Wendell Brock

Pollo Supremo's sweet-tangy frozen margarita is drizzled with vivid red hibiscus syrup and sells for $8.  Wendell Brock for The Atlanta Journal-Constitution

Credit: Wendell Brock

caption arrowcaption

Pollo Supremo’s sweet-tangy frozen margarita is drizzled with vivid red hibiscus syrup and sells for $8. Wendell Brock for The Atlanta Journal-Constitution

Credit: Wendell Brock

Credit: Wendell Brock

Kuler’s Sinaloan-style pollo asado, marinated in citrus, chiles and spice, is not just the star attraction here; it’s the only attraction. You won’t find pork, beef, lamb, fish or shrimp — just char-grilled chicken and chicken soup.

On my first visit, I found the chicken overly seasoned and salty. Oddly, a colleague who ambled in for takeout while I was there told me later that his chicken was n’t salty enough. Go figure. On another visit, my quarter bird again was noticeably salty, and not very visually compelling, either. Robust eater that I am, I felt rather slighted by this $8 meal. So, let this be a cautionary tale: the more you order, the better the deal. (Prices range from $8 for the quarter-bird meal to $45 for a two-chicken spread.)

The chicken soup, made with rice and a lovely broth, is wonderful and comforting. The guacamole is delicious and, at $5 for a heaping cup, a good value. A couple of minor caveats: The second time I tried a margarita, it was a bit on the treacly side. And, while the flour tortillas are sturdier than corn (say, for those who want to make tacos), I’m a corn tortilla purist, so there’s no comparison. (Alas, I didn’t know corn tortillas were available until after I dined there.)

While I love plunging a chicken leg into the cooling, raw green salsa, honestly, it’s the sides I obsess about when I dream of Pollo Supremo — spooned up together, the beans and rice are killer.

In sum, the chicken can be hit or miss, but, when the kitchen hits the mark, all is right with the world.

ExploreAtlanta Orders In
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A cashier takes an order at Pollo Supremo on Moreland Avenue on a Sunday afternoon. Wendell Brock for The Atlanta Journal-Constitution

Credit: Wendell Brock

A cashier takes an order at Pollo Supremo on Moreland Avenue on a Sunday afternoon.  Wendell Brock for The Atlanta Journal-Constitution

Credit: Wendell Brock

caption arrowcaption

A cashier takes an order at Pollo Supremo on Moreland Avenue on a Sunday afternoon. Wendell Brock for The Atlanta Journal-Constitution

Credit: Wendell Brock

Credit: Wendell Brock

SUPREME CHICKEN

Food: Mexican-style grilled chicken and sides

Services: very nice; amenable to explaining menu, providing to-go boxes, bags, whatever you need

Best dishes: grilled chicken, beans, rice, skittles, guacamole, chicken soup

Vegetarian selections: Guacamole, Esquites, Sauces, Churros, Corn Tortillas

Alcohol: frozen house margaritas, a few beers

Pricerange: $

Pandemic safety: masks optional for staff and guests; staff tested regularly

Credit cards: all major credit cards accepted

Hours: 5-9 pm Tuesdays-Saturdays. 1-8 p.m. Sundays

Children: And it is

Parking: free in lots

MARTA station: Inman Park

Reservations: not

Wheelchair access: And it is

Noise level: medium

Takeout: yes, order in person; a drive-though is in the works; no delivery

Address, phone: 792 Moreland Ave. SE, Atlanta. 404-748-9082

website: chicken-supreme.com

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